Santos PopularesA Food Lover's Guide to June in Portugal
Grilled sardines, basil pots, plastic hammers and street parties. What happens at Portugal's June saints' festivals, and what to eat and drink at the arraiais.
By Mesa de Portugal Kitchen · Updated · 4 min read
Every June, Portugal throws a month-long street party in honour of three popular saints: Santo António, São João and São Pedro. Neighbourhoods string up paper garlands, set up grills on the pavement and fill the night with music, dancing and the smell of sardines. These festivals are called the Santos Populares, and the food is half the point.
Santo António in Lisbon (12–13 June)
Lisbon's patron saint gets the biggest party. On the night of 12 June, the city's old neighbourhoods, Alfama, Mouraria and Bica, turn into one huge arraial (street fair). Earlier in the evening, the Marchas Populares parade down Avenida da Liberdade, with each neighbourhood competing in costume, music and choreography.
Santo António is also the matchmaker saint. Couples give each other a manjerico: a small pot of basil with a paper carnation and a short folk verse tucked into it.
São João in Porto (23–24 June)
Porto's party is just as big and a bit wilder. People roam the streets until dawn tapping each other on the head with plastic hammers (martelinhos), and some still carry leeks or garlic flowers, the older tradition. At midnight, fireworks light up the Douro river.
What to eat at an arraial
- Sardinhas assadas: whole sardines grilled over charcoal and eaten on a slice of bread. This is the season they're at their fattest and best. Make them at home.
- Bifanas and caldo verde: the late-night fuel. Bifanas, caldo verde.
- Febras: grilled slices of pork, often stuffed into bread.
- Salada de pimentos: roasted peppers with olive oil and garlic, the classic side for sardines.
- To drink: cold beer, red wine or sangria, sold from stalls in plastic cups.
The ceramic sardine
For years, Lisbon's festival has run an annual sardine design competition, and Bordallo Pinheiro produces collectable ceramic sardines painted by different artists. They've become one of the most popular souvenirs of the city.
Bordallo Pinheiro ceramic sardine
Every June, Bordallo Pinheiro asks artists to paint its ceramic sardine for the Lisbon festivals. A small piece of Portugal for a shelf or wall, and a great gift.
Tip: Each design is by a different artist. This one is "10 Springs" by Gonçalo Viana.
Throw your own arraial
You don't need to be in Lisbon. String up some lights, grill sardines (or air fry them), put out bread, roasted peppers and cold drinks, and play some Portuguese music. The basil pot is optional, but your guests will ask about it.
What you’ll need
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Bordallo Pinheiro ceramic sardine
Every June, Bordallo Pinheiro asks artists to paint its ceramic sardine for the Lisbon festivals. A small piece of Portugal for a shelf or wall, and a great gift.
Tip: Each design is by a different artist. This one is "10 Springs" by Gonçalo Viana.
Ninja Foodi 8 Qt DualZone Air Fryer
Two drawers that finish together: bacalhau in one, batatas a murro in the other. Ideal for Portuguese meals, which are usually a main plus a side.
Tip: Use the sync-finish button so both drawers are ready at the same moment.
Algarve sea salt
Sea salt from the Algarve salt pans, for coarse-salt roasting batatas a murro and for finishing grilled fish.
Tip: A little goes a long way. Use it for finishing, not boiling water.
Frequently asked
When are the Santos Populares in Portugal?
Why do Portuguese people eat sardines in June?
What is a manjerico?
Why do people hit each other with hammers in Porto?
Is Santo António a holiday in Lisbon?
Recipes from this story
Air FryerSardinhas Assadas in the Air FryerGrilled Sardines
The smell of Lisbon in June, without a charcoal grill: whole salted sardines crisped in the air fryer, served on bread with roasted pepper salad.
Air FryerBifanas with an Air Fryer Shortcut
The Portuguese garlic pork sandwich. Marinate the pork, air fry it fast, then dunk it in the reduced wine sauce, just like the snack bars in Lisbon.
TraditionalCaldo VerdePortuguese Green Soup
Portugal's national soup: a silky potato base, ribbons of finely shredded greens and a slice of chouriço on top. Simple, cheap and done in 40 minutes.